Dukes, an owl and 316 steps

Dijon's old centre sits between the Darcy and République tram stops, so park once and walk. The Puits de Moïse and Lac Kir are the exceptions.

1. Walk into the Beaux-Arts free

The Musée des Beaux-Arts fills a wing of the dukes' palace, and its permanent collections are free. The tombs of Philip the Bold and John the Fearless are in the guard room. It's closed on Tuesdays.

2. Book the tower before you climb

Tour Philippe le Bon is 46 m and 316 steps, guided only, €6. Book at the tourist office; bags and pushchairs can't be left at the bottom.

3. Touch the owl left-handed

The owl is carved on a buttress of Notre-Dame. Tradition says left hand, make a wish, and keep your back to the little salamander nearby. The Parcours de la Chouette follows 22 brass owl markers through the centre, just under 2 km.

4. Credit Weinberger, not Eiffel

Some guides say Eiffel built the Halles. The tourist office says engineer Louis-Clément Weinberger drew them, inspired by an 1868 Eiffel proposal, and they went up in 1873–75.

5. Drink at the Cité, park at Monge

The Cité internationale de la gastronomie et du vin opened on 6 May 2022, with more than 250 wines by the glass. Monge car park is next door.

6. Drive out for Moses and the lake

Claus Sluter's Puits de Moïse stands in hospital grounds, and the pavilion charges a small fee. Lac Kir has a free 3 km loop.

I'd climb the tower first and save the museum for the afternoon, because the tower runs on fixed slots.

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Cassis, gingerbread and mustard from Canada

1. Order a kir the Dijon way

Canon Félix Kir, mayor from 1945 to 1968, gave his name to white wine with cassis. On the Côte d'Or it's Aligoté, nine parts to one, often with gougères.

2. Eat the Burgundy classics once

Oeufs en meurette, eggs poached in red-wine sauce, jambon persillé, bœuf bourguignon and snails. I'd order the eggs, the one dish you rarely see at home.

3. Buy gingerbread at place Bossuet

Mulot & Petitjean says it has made pain d'épices since 1796; its old shop is at place Bossuet. Try the nonnettes.

4. Shop the Halles for a picnic

The Halles sell Époisses, Bresse chicken and Charolais beef. One guide gives market mornings as Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday.

5. Read the mustard label

"Dijon mustard" is a protected recipe, not a place, and the seed is grown mainly in Canada. For Burgundy seed, look for Moutarde de Bourgogne IGP, recognised in 2009.

The mustard jar is the souvenir everyone buys; I'd bring the gingerbread home instead.

The Foire, two holidays and Christmas lights

1. Ride T1 to the Foire

The Foire internationale et gastronomique runs 31 October to 11 November 2026. Entry is €7, and the €7 Pass Foire + Divia adds a day of trams. The fair counts 2,500 spaces within 900 m, but prints no price. I'd use Piscine Olympique P+R and ride T1.

2. Park free on the holidays

Toussaint falls on Sunday 1 November and Armistice Day on Wednesday 11 November. The kerb is free on both.

3. Check Christmas dates in November

The 2026 dates aren't official yet. One listing gives 28 November to 3 January, marked unconfirmed, across Place Darcy, Libération, République and rue de la Liberté.

Dukes, a canon and a market hall

1. Thank the Valois dukes

The palace tower went up in 1450–1460, when Dijon was capital of the dukes of Burgundy. Their tombs are still in the guard room.

2. Raise a glass to Canon Kir

Félix Kir, a priest, ran Dijon from 1945 to 1968. The drink carries his name.

3. Remember the Eiffel plan

The Halles copy an 1868 Eiffel company proposal. Eiffel was the famous name; the engineer who built them wasn't.