Málaga's fortress, a one-armed cathedral and Picasso's square
Old Málaga climbs from the port to the Gibralfaro hill, and every sight below is a walk from the Alcazaba car park. Leave the car there all day.
1. Start at the Alcazaba
The Alcazaba palace-fortress was built between the 11th and 15th centuries, on Phoenician remains. Go early, before the climb gets hot.
2. Walk up to Gibralfaro
Nasrid king Yusuf I enlarged Gibralfaro into a castle in 1340. I'd go for the view over the port and the bullring.
3. Count the cathedral's towers
Work on the cathedral stopped in 1782 for lack of money, before the south tower was built. Hence the nickname La Manquita, "the one-armed lady".
4. Look down on the Roman Theatre
The Roman Theatre dates from the time of Augustus and was found by chance in 1951. It sits right below the Alcazaba entrance, so I'd see both together.
5. See Picasso twice
The Museo Picasso opened in 2003 in the Buenavista palace, with over 200 works. His birthplace is on Plaza de la Merced; he lived there until 1884.
6. Pass the bullring
La Malagueta was built in 1874 in neo-Mudéjar style. It houses the Antonio Ordóñez bullfighting museum.
Espetos on the sand, wine from the barrel
1. Eat sardines off the espeto
An espeto is sardines skewered and grilled over olive wood in a sand-filled boat. Best from May to August, at El Caleño in Pedregalejo.
2. Order ajoblanco cold
Ajoblanco is a chilled soup of almonds, garlic, bread and oil, often with grapes. El Mesón de Cervantes serves it.
3. Try boquerones both ways
Anchovies come fried with lemon or raw in vinegar. The Atarazanas market stands on the site of the Nasrid shipyards, and its old gate survives.
4. Drink Málaga wine at Casa de Guardia
Antigua Casa de Guardia has poured sweet and dry Málaga wine since 1840. It closes at 15:00 on Sunday. My order would be a moscatel and some prawns.
Holy Week in March, the Feria in August
1. Skip the centre in Holy Week
Maundy Thursday and Good Friday, 25 and 26 March 2027, are holidays, so Holy Week runs 21–28 March. The blue zone is free, but processions close the centre.
2. Wait for the Feria dates
The 2026 Feria ran 15–22 August. The 2027 dates weren't out when I checked. In 2026 the city kept the centre car parks open 24 hours and ran bus line F to the fairground all night for €2.
3. Note the local holidays
Málaga's local holidays in 2027 are 19 August and 8 September. One report prints 18 August; 19 August 2027 is the Thursday.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| Thursday 25 – Friday 26 March 2027 (holidays); Holy Week 21–28 March 2027 | Semana Santa: Maundy Thursday and Good Friday are public holidays, so the blue zone is free; processions close much of the centre |
| August 2027, dates not yet published (2026 edition: 15–22 August) | Feria de Málaga. In 2026 the city kept the centre car parks open 24 hours and ran the F bus line around the clock to the fairground for €2 |
| Thursday 19 August and Wednesday 8 September 2027 | Málaga's two local holidays (one report lists 18 August; 19 August 2027 is the Thursday) |