A rack railway from 1898 and Europe's highest cable car station
Zermatt is a village you walk, with lifts to the glaciers above it. Leave the car in Täsch and spend the parking money on one good mountain ride.
1. Take the Gornergrat train
The Gornergrat Bahn opened in 1898, Switzerland's first electric rack railway. It climbs 9,339 m of track to 3,089 m. If I had one clear morning, this is where it would go.
2. Go up to 3,883 m
Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is the highest mountain station in Europe, with a view of 38 four-thousanders. The Glacier Palace is cut about 15 m into the ice.
3. Pick a Crystal cabin
On the Matterhorn Glacier Ride, some cabins have glass floors. They're on the world's highest 3S cableways, says the operator.
4. Walk the Hinterdorf
The Hinterdorf keeps over 30 larch buildings from the 16th to 18th centuries. The barns stand on flat stone slabs on stilts, to keep the mice out of the hay.
5. See the rope that broke
The Matterhorn Museum shows the rope from the 1865 first ascent. Adults pay CHF 12; it opens daily 15:00–18:00.
6. Walk from Sunnegga to Findeln
From the Sunnegga funicular top station, Findeln is about a 20-minute walk. Time it for lunch.
Raclette, cholera pie and a hut at 2,100 m
1. Order raclette made from raw milk
Raclette du Valais AOP is made from regional raw milk. The word, recorded from 1874, comes from French racler, to scrape.
2. Try the cholera pie
Cholera is a pastry pie of potatoes, leeks, onions, apples and strong cheese. The Saas-Fee tourist board doubts the epidemic story and links the name to "Cholära", the bakehouse coal store.
3. Book fondue at Whymper Stube
Whymper Stube, in the Hotel Monte Rosa, serves cheese fondue and raclette and reopens for winter from 13 November. I'd book.
4. Lunch at Chez Vrony
Chez Vrony sits at about 2,100 m and opens 11:30–17:00. Its organic platter of dried meat, Alpine cheese and sausage is in the MICHELIN Guide's description.
5. Finish with apricot tart
Valais apricots go into a buttery tart. With a coffee on a terrace, that's dessert.
Unplugged in April, a marathon in July
1. Book early for Zermatt Unplugged
The music festival runs 6–10 April 2027, Tuesday to Saturday; the line-up comes out in December. Täsch fills, so I'd book the terminal online.
2. Watch for the marathon date
The 2026 Zermatt Marathon was on Saturday 4 July. The 2027 date isn't published, though sign-up is open.
3. Check Christmas dates in November
I found no official Christmas or New Year programme with dates for 2026.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| 13 November 2026 | Whymper Stube reopens for the winter season (Hotel Monte Rosa) |
| December 2026, dates not published | Christmas and New Year in Zermatt: I found no official programme with dates when I checked |
| 6–10 April 2027 | Zermatt Unplugged music festival, Tuesday to Saturday; line-up due in December |
| July 2027, date not published | Zermatt Marathon; the 2026 race was on Saturday 4 July and 2027 sign-up is open |