A Roman palace you can walk through, a toe to rub, a beach with its own ball game
Most of Split's sights sit inside or right outside the palace walls, so the car can stay put all day. If you have one afternoon: the Peristyle, the cellars, the toe.
1. Start at the Peristyle
The Peristyle was the emperor's front courtyard. UNESCO listed the palace and old town in 1979. I'd come before 09:00, when the steps are still empty.
2. Climb the cathedral's bell tower
The Cathedral of St Domnius was built into Diocletian's own mausoleum. The tower is the best view of the palace roofs.
3. Go under the palace
The substructures are barrel-vaulted cellars below the old imperial rooms. Game of Thrones filmed here for season 4.
4. Rub Gregory of Nin's toe
Gregory of Nin stands outside the Golden Gate. Ivan Meštrović made him in 1929 for the Peristyle; Italian forces removed him in 1941, and he came back here in 1954. The toe is polished gold by wishes.
5. Walk up Marjan
Marjan is the wooded hill at the end of the peninsula. Its top, Telegrin, is 178 m. Go at sunset.
6. Watch picigin at Bačvice
Bačvice is where students back from Prague invented picigin in 1908: keep a small ball out of the water, palms only. It's the best free show in town.
7. Drive to Klis for Meereen
Klis Fortress sits about 9 km inland and played Meereen in Game of Thrones. It fell to the Ottomans in 1537.
Peka, pašticada and a fish market with no flies
1. Ask about peka when you book
Peka is meat or octopus slow-cooked with potatoes under an iron bell. It takes hours, so I'd ask for it when booking the table.
2. Try pašticada once
Beef marinated and braised with prunes and root vegetables, served with gnocchi.
3. Eat soparnik, and drop the UNESCO claim
Soparnik is chard, onion and garlic baked between thin dough. Some guides call it UNESCO-protected. It isn't: "Poljički soparnik" is an EU protected geographical indication, since 5 April 2016.
4. Go to Peškarija early
The Peškarija fish market runs roughly 06:00–13:00. Locals credit sulphur from the old spa for the lack of flies. For crni rižot or grilled fish, I'd book Konoba Fetivi, listed by Michelin, Monday–Saturday 12:00–22:00.
Skip the Riva terraces for dinner. You're paying for the palms.
Picigin on New Year's Day, a saint in May, a festival in July
1. Go to Bačvice on 1 January 2027
Picigin players go in on New Year's Day whatever the weather. It's a tradition, not a ticketed event, so no programme is published.
2. Plan around Sudamja, 7 May 2027
Sudamja, the feast of St Domnius, is Split's city day. There's a procession and a mass, traditionally on the Riva or at the cathedral. I'd park in Zone III that day.
3. Book ahead for Ultra, 9–11 July 2027
Ultra Europe is at Park Mladeži stadium. The 2027 Split Summer Festival programme isn't out.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| 1 January 2027 | New Year's Day picigin at Bačvice beach, a tradition played whatever the weather; no programme published |
| Friday 7 May 2027 | Sudamja, feast of St Domnius and Split's city day: procession and mass, traditionally on the Riva or at the cathedral |
| 9–11 July 2027 | Ultra Europe at Park Mladeži stadium |
| Summer 2027 | Split Summer Festival; the 2027 programme is not yet published |