A funicular from 1912, three steel combs and a queen's summer house
San Sebastián is a bay with a hill at each end. Park at Illunbe, ride in, and walk the whole curve between Igueldo and Urgull.
1. Ride the 1912 funicular up Igueldo
The Igueldo funicular opened on 25 August 1912 and climbs 320 m of track. At the top, the old amusement park still runs a roller coaster over the sea. Go before sunset for the bay.
2. Stand by the Peine del Viento
Chillida gave the city the Peine del Viento in 1977: three steel pieces, each over nine tonnes. On a rough day the sea shoots up through holes in the square. Police close it in the worst storms.
3. Climb Urgull to the statue
The Christ on Monte Urgull is over 12 m tall and has stood there since 1950. Paths open 08:00–19:30 in winter, until 21:00 from May. I'd go up from Plaza Zuloaga and down by the Paseo Nuevo.
4. Find Oteiza on the Paseo Nuevo
Oteiza's Construcción vacía, which won at the São Paulo Biennial in 1957, stands at the end of the Paseo Nuevo. I'd time it for high tide.
5. Walk the Miramar gardens
Queen María Cristina had Miramar Palace built in 1893 by a British architect. The gardens are the best view of La Concha without a ticket.
6. Visit San Telmo for the building
San Telmo Museoa sits in a 16th-century Dominican convent with a modern wing. I'd go for the building more than the collection.
Gildas, a burnt cheesecake and the Parte Vieja
1. Order a gilda where it started
Casa Vallés, open since 1942, claims the gilda: olive, guindilla pepper and anchovy on a stick, named after the Rita Hayworth film. It's one bite.
2. Eat the cheesecake at La Viña
La Viña in the Parte Vieja has served its burnt cheesecake for almost thirty years. The tourist board's recipe uses a kilo of cream cheese and no base.
3. Eat pintxos standing up
The Parte Vieja runs on pintxos at the bar. I'd take one and a drink per bar and move on.
4. Drink txakoli with it
Txakoli is the local white, sharp and light. It goes with anchovies.
Drums on 20 January, films in September
1. Stay up for the Tamborrada
The Tamborrada starts at 00:00 on 20 January with the flag raised in Plaza de la Constitución, and ends 24 hours later when it's lowered. Over 200 drum companies march. In 2027 that's a Wednesday; I'd leave the car at Illunbe.
2. Book early for the film festival
The 74th film festival ran 18–26 September 2026. The 2027 dates aren't published yet; Maialen Beloki takes over as director in 2027.
3. Expect full streets in summer
In 2026 Jazzaldia ran 22–26 July and Semana Grande 8–15 August. During those weeks residents of the central sectors could park across the whole OTA zone, so street spaces vanish. The 2027 dates aren't out.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| Wednesday 20 January 2027, from 00:00 for 24 hours | Tamborrada, San Sebastián Day: flag raised at midnight in Plaza de la Constitución, over 200 drum companies |
| July 2027, dates not yet published (2026: 22–26 July) | Jazzaldia jazz festival |
| August 2027, dates not yet published (2026: 8–15 August) | Semana Grande, the August fiesta |
| Tuesday 31 August 2027 | Commemoration of the 1813 burning: lights out, candles and a torch procession in the Parte Vieja |
| September 2027, dates not yet published (2026: 18–26 September) | San Sebastián International Film Festival, 75th edition; Maialen Beloki's first as director |