Riga's spires, Art Nouveau and five zeppelin hangars
Old Riga has been a UNESCO site since 1997, and the sights below sit within walking distance of each other. Leave the car in zone A and walk in.
1. Hear the Cathedral organ
Riga Cathedral is on Doma laukums; In Your Pocket dates its organ's inauguration to 31 January 1884. I'd time a visit for a concert.
2. Look up at St Peter's spire
St Peter's Church lost its wooden tower to fire in the Second World War. The rebuilt spire is 123.25 m, per In Your Pocket.
3. Stand in front of the Blackheads
The House of the Blackheads stands on Town Hall Square at Rātslaukums 7. The façade is the reason to go.
4. Walk to the Freedom Monument
The Freedom Monument stands 42.7 m tall at the junction with Raiņa bulvāris.
5. Look up on Alberta iela
Riga has at least 800 Art Nouveau buildings, Wikipedia says, and the Art Nouveau Museum sits on Alberta iela among some of them. The street costs nothing from the pavement.
6. Shop in the zeppelin hangars
Riga Central Market fills five former zeppelin hangars next to the Old Town. Entry is free; I'd go hungry.
Grey peas, pīrāgi and smoked fish by the river
1. Order grey peas with bacon
Grey peas with fried bacon and onion are the classic winter dish. Zviedru vārti serves them, with rye bread soup for dessert.
2. Start with a cheap Lido plate
Lido is a Latvian bistro with cold beetroot soup and skewers. It's where I'd test what I like before paying more.
3. Buy pīrāgi for the road
Pīrāgi are small pastries filled with bacon and onion. Mārtiņa beķereja in the Old Town bakes them.
4. Pick smoked fish at the market
Smoked sprats, herring and eel are Latvia's fish staples, and the Central Market sells smoked fish, cheese and pickles. A picnic from there beats any terrace.
Riga's light festival, a Christmas market and an August closure
1. Walk Staro Rīga, don't drive it
The Staro Rīga light festival runs 15–18 November 2026, 17:00–23:00, along both banks of the Daugava. I'd park in zone B and walk.
2. Check the Christmas market dates
The 2026–27 dates for the Doma laukums market are unpublished. The last one ran 28 November 2025 to 4 January 2026.
3. Expect Old Riga shut in August
For Riga's birthday on 15–16 August 2026, Old Riga was closed to cars and the municipal paid car parks were free. The 2027 dates are unpublished.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| 15–18 November 2026, 17:00–23:00 | Staro Rīga light festival along both banks of the Daugava, about 5 km of route |
| Late November 2026 to early January 2027; dates not yet published | Christmas market on Doma laukums (last edition 28 November 2025 – 4 January 2026) |
| August 2027, dates not yet published | Riga's birthday celebrations; in 2026 (15–16 August) Old Riga was closed to cars and municipal paid car parks were free |