A rose window, a round castle and a free palace
Palma's sights cluster between the cathedral and the old town behind it, and the walk from end to end is short. Park once, ideally outside the ring.
1. Look up at the rose window
The cathedral's great rose window is about 13 metres across and is nicknamed the "Eye of the Gothic". La Seu keeps no Sunday tourist hours, so I'd go on a weekday morning.
2. Book the cathedral terraces
From March to November the €25 ticket at the cathedral covers the roof terraces and the museum, with visits every 30 minutes. It's the one ticket in Palma I'd book ahead.
3. Visit the Almudaina on a free afternoon
The royal palace of La Almudaina faces the cathedral. It's free for EU citizens on Wednesday and Sunday from 15:00, tickets at the desk only.
4. Walk the lake at Parc de la Mar
Parc de la Mar lies in front of the cathedral, with the car park underneath. It's the best photo of the façade and costs nothing.
5. Go to Bellver on a Sunday
Bellver Castle is built on a circular plan, early 14th century, on the hill west of the centre. It's €4, free on Sunday, closed on Monday. Parking beside it is paid.
6. Start at the Olivar market
Mercat de l'Olivar sits on top of a 380-space city car park, so you can shop and drive off without a second stop.
Skip the Sunday cathedral plan. It's the classic visitor mistake here.
Ensaïmada at breakfast, vermouth at noon
1. Dip an ensaïmada at Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo
Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo has served since 1700, behind Santa Eulàlia. Order the ensaïmada with thick hot chocolate.
2. Add the almond ice cream
The house gelat d'ametla is the other reason to go, and the quart sponge is made for dipping. I'd order both and skip lunch.
3. Drink vermouth at La Rosa
La Rosa Vermutería pours over fifty vermouths and serves tapas a few minutes from the cathedral.
4. Eat pa amb oli with sobrassada
Bread rubbed with tomato and oil, topped with sobrassada, the soft paprika sausage, is the island's everyday lunch. Look for tumbet and frit mallorquí on the same menus.
The ensaïmada is the dish to carry home, boxed, on the ferry or the plane.
Light in November, fire in January
1. Be in the cathedral on 11 November
On 11 November and 2 February, just after sunrise, the sun through the rose window lights the nave: the Festa de la Llum. In 2026 it falls on a Wednesday.
2. Leave the car for Sant Sebastià
The patron's night, 19 January, fills the squares with bonfires and concerts, and the 20th is his feast day. The 2027 programme isn't out yet.
3. Watch the Estendard on 31 December
The Festa de l'Estendard marks Jaume I's arrival in the city. The 2026 programme hasn't been published.
I'd come in November for the light and stay off the roads on 19 January.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| Wednesday 11 November 2026, just after sunrise | Festa de la Llum: morning sun through the cathedral's great rose window lights up the nave |
| Thursday 31 December 2026 | Festa de l'Estendard, marking Jaume I's arrival in the city; 2026 programme not yet published |
| 1 January 2027 | ZBE phase 2 (label B out) and the ORA blue zone expansion start |
| 19–20 January 2027 (Tuesday–Wednesday) | Sant Sebastià: the revetla night of bonfires and concerts in the squares, then the patron's day; programme not yet published |
| Tuesday 2 February 2027, just after sunrise | The second Festa de la Llum of the year in the cathedral |