One bridge, two banks and a cemetery on the hill
The old town hangs off both ends of one bridge, so park once and walk it. The Partisan cemetery is the only sight here I'd take the car to.
1. Cross the Stari Most early
The Stari Most was finished in 1566 by Mimar Hayruddin, a pupil of Sinan. Its single arch is about 30 m long. Morning is when I'd cross it.
2. Use Kriva Ćuprija to dodge crowds
The Crooked Bridge spans a small tributary of the Neretva. In Your Pocket calls it the most underrated bridge in the region, and it's a way across the old town without the queue.
3. Climb Koski Mehmed Pasha's minaret
The Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque dates from the 17th century and sits on the river. The courtyard is free; the minaret is the view people climb for.
4. See Karađoz Bey's mosque
The Karađoz Bey Mosque is a 16th-century building attributed to Mimar Sinan. It was nearly destroyed in the war and restored in 2002.
5. Step inside Muslibegović House
Muslibegović House is an 18th-century home built by a family that came from Herceg Novi after Venice took it.
6. Go for the Old Bridge Museum photos
The Old Bridge Museum shows finds from the reconstruction and a long photo history of the bridge. In Your Pocket lists it open 10:00–18:00. I'd skip the finds and give the photos my time.
7. Drive up to the Partisan Memorial Cemetery
Bogdan Bogdanović's Partisan Memorial Cemetery dates from 1965. It's neglected, and that's part of the reason to go.
Ćevapi, japrak and tufahija by the Neretva
1. Order ćevapi at Tima-Irma
Tima-Irma is a family grill in the old bazaar that two guides say has run for about 30 years. Ćevapi come with lepina bread; indoor seating is small.
2. Eat japrak at Šadrvan
Šadrvan is in the old town and fills up, so book. Japrak is chard leaves rolled round rice and mince in tomato sauce; the Sultan's platter adds dolma and small ćevapi.
3. Sit by the Crooked Bridge at Hindin Han
Hindin Han sits next to Kriva Ćuprija and does a mixed grill. Finish with hurmašica, a biscuit soaked in syrup.
4. Try tufahija once
Tufahija is a poached apple stuffed with walnuts and soaked in syrup. One is enough for me.
5. Drink Žilavka, not imports
Žilavka is the local white wine. With a car outside, I'd buy a bottle for the evening instead.
Mostar divers in summer, a date still to come
1. Check the July diving date
The formal Old Bridge diving competition started in 1968 and is held at the end of July. The 2027 date wasn't published when I checked.
2. Watch for Red Bull's return
In March 2026 Fena reported that Red Bull had reversed its decision to drop Mostar from the 2026 Cliff Diving World Series. The 2025 rounds ran in early September. No 2027 date is out.
3. Expect a quiet 9 November
The city has marked the anniversary of the bridge's destruction in past years. The 2026 programme hasn't been published.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| 9 November 2026 | Anniversary of the Old Bridge's destruction in 1993; marked in past years, 2026 programme not published |
| Late July 2027, date not yet published | Traditional Old Bridge diving competition, held formally since 1968 |
| 2027, date not yet published | Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series: Mostar was put back on the 2026 calendar in March 2026; the 2025 rounds ran in early September |