A 91-metre monument, Bach's choir and Monday prayers

Most of the centre is walkable from Höfe am Brühl; the monument and the Panometer are a tram ride south. With one day I'd do St Thomas, St Nicholas and the monument.

1. Climb the Völkerschlachtdenkmal

The Völkerschlachtdenkmal is 91 metres high and was dedicated in 1913, a century after the battle. Adults pay €12 at the museum's own price; the city's English page still says €8. November to March it opens 10:00–16:00.

2. Hear where Bach worked

At St Thomas Church, Johann Sebastian Bach led the boys' choir from 1723 to 1750. The choir has been at the church since 1212. Open daily 09:00–18:00.

3. Sit in St Nicholas on a Monday

St Nicholas Church has held prayers for peace every Monday at 17:00 since 1982, without a break. I'd go at five on a Monday and just sit in.

4. Walk through the station hall

Leipzig Hauptbahnhof opened in 1915. The city calls it Europe's largest terminus by area. More than 140 shops sit on three levels.

5. Stand inside the Panometer

The Panometer is a gasholder from 1909–10 turned into a round panorama. The viewing platform is 15 metres up. Daily 10:00–17:00.

6. See the model in the Old Town Hall

The Old Town Hall has held the city history museum since 1909. Its model of 19th-century Leipzig covers about 25 square metres.

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Larks made of marzipan and a sour beer back from the dead

1. Order a Leipziger Lerche

Saxony's king banned lark hunting for pies in 1876, so bakers made a pastry instead: shortcrust, almonds, marzipan, a dab of jam. Café Kandler by St Thomas also sells a Bach coffee.

2. Drink Gose at the old station

Gose is a top-fermented beer that nearly died out. The Gosebrauerei Bayerischer Bahnhof brews it in a station built in 1841–44.

3. Eat Allerlei the proper way

Leipziger Allerlei is spring vegetables with morels, prawns and bread dumplings, not the tinned mix. Räbchen are marzipan-filled prunes fried in batter, rolled in cinnamon sugar.

4. Book Auerbachs Keller for Faust

Goethe studied in Leipzig and put Auerbachs Keller in Faust. The famous Coffe Baum café is closed for renovation until further notice.

Christmas market from 24 November, Augustusplatz closed till 13 November

1. Drive in after 13 November

Until 13 November 2026 you can't reach Q-Park Augustusplatz from Grimmaischer Steinweg. I'd come in by Goethestraße or use Höfe am Brühl.

2. Park outside for the Christmas market

The market runs 24 November to 23 December 2026 on the Markt, Augustusplatz and five more squares: 11:00–21:00, Friday and Saturday to 22:00. Opening day starts at 17:00. On a December Saturday, I'd use the Messe P+R.

3. Watch for the end of the zone

The Umweltzone ends with the new clean-air plan; the date isn't set. Until it's announced, keep the sticker on.

1813, 1723 and a station from 1915

1. Know the battle the monument marks

The Battle of the Nations was fought around Leipzig on 16–19 October 1813. The first stone of the monument was laid in 1898 and it took 15 years to build.

2. Remember Bach's 27 years here

Bach was cantor of St Thomas for 27 years, 1723–1750, leading a choir that was already five centuries old.

3. Read the station as a boast

The Hauptbahnhof's first stone went down in 1909 and it opened in 1915, among the biggest stations in the world. In 2013 the City Tunnel put the S-Bahn underneath it. I'd call it the city's best free building.