666 arches (nearly), towers behind a fence, a window on a canal
Bologna's centre is flat and roofed: 62 km of porticoes, on UNESCO's list since 28 July 2021. Park once at the edge and walk under them.
1. Count the San Luca arches
The Portico di San Luca climbs from Porta Saragozza to the sanctuary on the Colle della Guardia. Everyone says 666 arches. The city's own porticoes site says slightly fewer, depending on how you count.
2. See the Two Towers from outside
The Two Towers are fenced off. The 48 m Garisenda started moving more than usual in November 2023, and works run to at least 2028. At last report there was no date to climb the Asinelli again.
3. Look up at San Petronio's façade
San Petronio was built between 1388 and 1479 and never finished. The bare brick upper half of the front is the proof.
4. Stand by Neptune
Fontana del Nettuno is Giambologna's bronze, dated 1563. It's free and a minute from San Petronio.
5. Visit the Archiginnasio's anatomy theatre
The wooden anatomy theatre was destroyed by bombing in 1944 and rebuilt. I'd give it twenty minutes.
6. Peer through the Finestrella
On Via Piella a small shutter opens onto the Canale delle Moline. It's free and takes a minute.
7. Count the churches at Santo Stefano
Santo Stefano is called the Seven Churches; four buildings survive. Entry is free.
Tagliatelle, tortellini and mortadella by the slice
1. Put the ragù on tagliatelle
In Bologna the ragù goes on fresh egg tagliatelle. I'd walk past any menu selling "spaghetti bolognese".
2. Order tortellini in brodo
Stuffed pasta in broth is the winter dish. Lasagne verdi, with spinach pasta, is the baked one.
3. Buy mortadella in the Quadrilatero
The old market streets behind Piazza Maggiore sell mortadella sliced to order; Tamburini is the classic counter. Ask for crescentine, fried dough, to go with it.
4. Eat at Osteria dell'Orsa
Osteria dell'Orsa is a university-quarter osteria with shared tables. Go early.
5. Graze at Mercato di Mezzo
Mercato di Mezzo is a covered food hall in the Quadrilatero. It's my pick for a quick lunch on the move.
Tractors in November, cosmetics in March, a car-free T every weekend
1. Avoid exit 8 during EIMA
EIMA International, the farm-machinery fair, fills BolognaFiere on 10–14 November 2026. The Michelino fair car park opens (€20 a day in 2025) and the ring road near exit 8 jams.
2. Check Cosmoprof before booking March
One listing puts Cosmoprof Worldwide on 18–21 March 2027. I couldn't confirm it with the organiser, so check before you book.
3. Plan weekends around the T-days
Every weekend and holiday the T streets belong to pedestrians, 08:00 Saturday to 22:00 Sunday. It's the best time to walk them.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| Every weekend and public holiday | T-days: Via Rizzoli, Indipendenza and Ugo Bassi pedestrian only from 08:00 Saturday to 22:00 Sunday |
| 10–14 November 2026 | EIMA International, the farm-machinery fair at BolognaFiere; the Michelino fair car park opens, the ring road near exit 8 fills |
| 18–21 March 2027 (one listing; organiser not checked) | Cosmoprof Worldwide, the beauty trade fair at BolognaFiere |
| Until at least 2028 | Works to secure the Garisenda tower; the area round the Two Towers stays fenced |