Bergen's Bryggen, a funicular and a 1261 hall
Bergen's old centre is compact: Bryggen, the fish market, the fortress and the funicular sit around one harbour. Park once and walk.
1. Walk Bryggen's back alleys
Bryggen has been on UNESCO's list since 1979. Its look dates from the rebuild after the 1702 fire; about 62 buildings remain. The alleys behind the front row are better than the façade.
2. Ride Fløibanen up to 320 m
Fløibanen climbs to 320 m in about six minutes. A winter return is NOK 145 until 31 December 2026; summer 2027 is NOK 210 online. I'd go at dusk.
3. Eat at the Fish Market
The Fish Market has traded since the 1200s; the indoor Mathallen opened in 2012 and runs all year. Outdoor stalls start on 1 May.
4. Stand in Haakon's Hall
Haakon's Hall was built between 1247 and 1261 by King Haakon Håkonsson. It reopened in 1961 after the 1944 explosion.
5. Climb the Rosenkrantz Tower
The Rosenkrantz Tower began around 1270; Erik Rosenkrantz added three floors in the 1560s.
6. Save Troldhaugen for summer 2027
At Troldhaugen, Grieg's villa is closed for rehabilitation, planned to reopen in summer 2027. My advice: wait.
Fish soup, Thursday potato balls and a shilling bun
1. Order Bergen fish soup
Visit Bergen treats fish soup as the city's test. Søstrene Hagelin serves it with fish cakes and fish pudding.
2. Eat raspeballer on a Thursday
Raspeballer are potato balls of potato, flour, salt and water, traditionally a Thursday dish. Pingvinen and Bryggeloftet & Stuene serve them on Thursdays.
3. Buy a skillingsbolle
The skillingsbolle is a big sugared bun once sold for a shilling. Godt Brød bakes them.
4. Try persetorsk and puspas
Persetorsk is cod cured in salt and sugar, then pressed. Puspas is Bergen's version of mutton and cabbage. I'd try both before the hvit dame, a marzipan cake.
Gingerbread in November, the festival in May
1. See Pepperkakebyen before 10 January
Pepperkakebyen, the gingerbread town, runs 14 November 2026 to 10 January 2027 at byROMMET, Kong Oscars gate 24–26. Adults pay NOK 199 online.
2. Walk the Christmas market
The market fills Festplassen from 20 November to 22 December 2026. Entry is free; the Ferris wheel isn't. The Festival of Lights is 14 November, 16:00–17:00.
3. Book early for Festspillene
The Bergen International Festival runs 26 May to 12 June 2027, its 75th jubilee. The first was in 1953.
What's on
| When | What |
|---|---|
| Saturday 14 November 2026, 16:00–17:00 | Festival of Lights around Lille Lungegårdsvann; free |
| 14 November 2026 – 10 January 2027 | Pepperkakebyen (Gingerbread City) at byROMMET, Kong Oscars gate 24–26; adults NOK 199 online |
| 20 November – 22 December 2026 | Bergen Christmas Market at Festplassen; free entry, Ferris wheel extra |
| 1 November 2026 – 4 April 2027 | Studded-tyre fee season (NOK 35 a day) |
| 26 May – 12 June 2027 | Bergen International Festival (Festspillene), 75th jubilee |